Mussels Again (and Probably Again)

I love mussels. I love how easy they are, cooked in seconds without any fuss, a hot pan and a splash of wine. I love stories of Italian women, pants rolled, wading into tidal waters with short-bladed, blunt, little knives to prize the bivalves from rocks. I love the hollow notes the vacant shells make as they are tossed, one by one, onto an ever-growing pile of empties. Mussels taste of the sea: plump, steamy, metallic, briny, slightly fishy, vaguely sea-weedy (and yes, it is a word, as of now). Eat them steamed, with a touch of cream, drizzled with olive oil, crumbed and fried, smoked, with cherry tomatoes and garlic, in a soup, a chowder, on bread, with a beer, a glass of sparkling, or any other way you can get them. I eat these shellfish as often as possible, which, thankfully, is quite frequently. Mussels are so versatile I never grow tired of them.



Mussels in a Tomato and Chipotle Sauce

Chipotle peppers give this rich tomato sauce a fiery, smoke-filled kick.

2 k live mussels, bearded
4 large tomatoes, cored, blanched, peeled, and crushed
1 small brown onion, finely diced
1 clove of garlic, peeled and cracked
1 tin of chipotle peppers, puréed
olive oil

In a large pot over medium heat sweat the onion in a couple tablespoons of olive oil. When the onion is soft and translucent, add the cracked clove of garlic, the tomatoes, and a heaped tablespoon of the chipotle purée. Simmer over medium-low heat until a thick sauce has formed. Taste for chili heat – adding more chipotle as necessary. Increase the heat to high and when the sauce is bubbling rapidly, toss in the mussels and close the lid.

As the mussels steam open, they will release salty water, seasoning and thinning your sauce. Give the pot a shake or two every minuet while the mussels are cooking, they should all open in about 3 to 4 minuets. Taste the sauce once more, adjusting the salt and chili, drizzle with 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Sprinkle with chopped coriander.