On Fungus

I’m allergic to mushrooms. No. That’s a lie. I just don’t like them. Wait. That’s not true either. It’s just that I never had a good mushroom until I started cooking professionally way back on Tuesday. Until that point, mushrooms presented themselves in all their inedible splendor, slithering around in a self-created, ashen slime-sample. How could I say no?

Hence the lie – it is much easier to feign allergy then to explain that you just prefer not to eat something that is in the same kingdom as several forms of toenail rot.

I’ve come around.

I love the little fungi, now that I’ve had them cooked properly.

“Properly” is quite a simple method that works for most mushrooms. Start with a hot pan. I mean a HOT pan. Is your pan hot enough? Probably not. Cook with some balls, for once. Ok, hot now? Working quickly (so you don’t start a spectacular oil conflagration), pour a few tablespoons of veg oil into the pan and immediately add the mushrooms (sliced or not, depending on size). Salt lightly. Now, wait. Don’t flip them; don’t shake the pan; try not to stare as this will make them self-conscious. After a minuet or two you will notice a change in the pitch of the pan sizzle and a deep, roasty aroma. Add a crushed clove of garlic and a knob of butter. When the butter starts foaming, toss the mushrooms and season again. Only now may you reduce the heat. Try to keep the butter foaming without browning – too hot and it will stop foaming and burn, too cool and it will stop foaming and become a sodden mess. When colored all over tip onto paper towel to drain excess butter; remove garlic.

Scummy, pallid, flaccid mushrooms happen when you stew them instead of roasting them, i.e. your pan isn’t hot enough.

Let’s put this into practice.



Pan roasted Kingfish with a Sauté of Pine Mushrooms on Saffron-Infused Celeriac Puree

1 lovely, 180 g chunk of sashimi quality kingfish
100 g wild mushrooms (in my case pine mushrooms, native to OZ)
1 tsp chopped parsley
1 clove garlic
1 small head celeriac
pinch saffron
butter

Heat oven to 200º C (400º F). Peel celeriac and cut into small chunks. Place in a pot, cover with lightly salted water and bring to a boil. When cooked through (test with a knife, it will be soft, much like a cooked potato), remove from heat. While still hot, remove the celeriac from the water using a slotted spoon and transfer to a blender. Add saffron and blend, adding a couple tablespoons of cold butter in small chunks, incorporating each bit before adding the next. Use enough of the cooking liquid to form a smooth puree. Keep warm.

In a small pan on medium-high heat cook Kingfish until skin begins to brown and crisp. Transfer pan, fish still skin-side down, to oven. Roast for 6-8 min, until medium rare.

Meanwhile sauté mushrooms according to instructions above. Jesus, how many times do I have to tell you to use a hot pan? Toss cooked mushrooms with chopped parsley.

Assemble using the photo as a guide. You can do it. I believe.